Cacti Removal Return to Topic's Directory

Definition

Prevention

Early Warning Signs

Symptoms

Treatment

Caution

Is it in your pack?

First-aid Kit Items Return to Topic's Directory

Considerations Before You Go

A well thought out first-aid kit is an absolutely essential item to carry with you while enjoying the outdoors, regardless of how far away from civilization you will be. Any number of medical needs can arise when in the field and as with all delayed help situations YOU may need to administer the first stages of care to your pet. Whether you create your own first-aid kit or buy a prepackaged variety, carrying it isn't enough. You must also know what you have in your kit and how to use it. Finally, please keep yourself up to date with Pet First-aid and CPR training. Courses typically only last part of a day and are very reasonably priced. We list them regularly on the Community Calendar.

Suggested Items (modify based on your trip plans, terrain and group size)

Bandaging Material/Dressing

• Non-stick Pads (larger sizes work best - cut to fit your need)
• Several Gauze Pads 3" x 3" or 4" x 4"
• Gauze Roll 2" or 3"
• Compression Bandage
• Adhesive tape
• 2 or 3 rolls of Self-adhesive wrap (Co-flex, Vetwrap, Medi-Rip)
• Stretch wrap (Ace bandage type)

Oral Medication/Aids

• Antibiotics (Consult your Veterinarian)
• Buffered aspirin
• Antihistamines (like Benadryl)
• Electrolytes
• Vomit inducers (like Hydrogen Peroxide 3%, Apomorphine)
• Anti-diarrhea medication (like Kaopectate and Pepto Bismol)

Topical Ointments, Wound Cleansers and Antibacterial Solutions

• Triple antibiotic ointment
• Sting Relief
• Saline eye wash and non-steroid ointment
• Ear wash
• Wound disinfectant (like Betadine or Hydrogen Peroxide 3%)
• Coagulant powder (like Kwik-Stop)
• Burn ointment
• Insect Repellent

Tools and Other Helpful Supplies

• Gloves
• Muzzle
• Multi-tool with pliers
• Tweezers or Hemostat
• Scissors
• Rectal Thermometer
• Safety Pins
• Dental Floss
• Cotton Swabs
• Space Blanket
• Cold & Heat Packs
• Nylon Stocking or sock
• First-aid book
• Sheets with normal K9 vital sign values, care check list and emergency vet info.

Fish Hook Removal Return to Topic's Directory

Fractures / Breaks Return to Topic's Directory

Gun Shot Return to Topic's Directory

Hyperthermia (Heat Exhaustion & Heat Stroke) Return to Topic's Directory Topic's Directory

Definition

Hyperthermia is defined in canines as an elevated core body temperature, general anything over 102.5 F. The beginning phase of hyperthermia is commonly referred to as Heat Exhaustion. If the dog's body temperature continues to rise the next stage is Heat Stroke. Heat Stroke occurs when the dog's core body temperature exceeds 104 F. Both are very serious issues and could result in permanent brain damage or death if not treated immediately.

Prevention

• Older, overweight, or long haired breeds are more likely to suffer from heat related issues. You can help by brushing the coat more often, lowering your dog's weight and taking it easy when hiking with a high risk traildog.
• Pre-condition to temperatures, distance and difficulty level.
• Learn what is normal for your dog. (Normal body temp., panting, water intake, etc.)
• Encourage your dog to pre-hydrate the night before and the morning of the hike. Provide copious amounts of water before loading into a vehicle, at breaks while driving to the trailhead and at the trailhead before setting off.
• Keep your dog leashed. This allows you to control how fast they are moving on the trail and decreases the likelihood they will over do it by racing back and forth.
• Take regular rest stops in the shade. Force your dog to relax if necessary.
• Bring a bowl. This helps your dog drink more efficiently and helps you conserve water.
• Learn the warning signs and watch for them closely.

Early Warning Signs

• Pace slows and the dog tries to lie down whenever shade is encountered
• The dog has an abnormally large tongue
• He coughs up water after drinking
• The dog eagerly looks for water at every stop or barges into other dog's bowls
• Abnormal irritability

If you are seeing these types of behaviors, heat exhaustion is likely right around the corner. Stop and cool the dog before he gets worse. If possible find a shaded location and allow a sufficient amount of time for the dog to recover before continuing on.

Heat Exhaustion

Symptoms

• Excessive panting and/or salivating
• Ear skin is flush red
• Muddy pink or grey gums
• Unresponsive to commands or other stimuli

Heat Stroke

Symptoms

• Extreme panting
• Weakness and/or staggering
• Fainting/collapse
• Vomiting and/or runny stool

Treatment

Treatment is basically the same for both heat exhaustion and heat stroke. With both you should deal with the problem in the field and only proceed to your vehicle AFTER the dog's temperature has returned to normal or near normal.

Heat exhaustion is a little less life threatening but should still be addressed promptly before it escalates in to heat stroke.

• Cool the dog ASAP
  Move into the shade. Washes or areas that are shaded for longer portions of the day are best if there is one close by. If there is cool sand in the wash have the dog lie there as opposed to on warmer rocks. If shade isn't immediately present it might be necessary to make your own shade by using a rain poncho, tarp, space blanket, umbrella, etc. A t-shirt extended between two trekking poles will also work if nothing else is available. If you are alone and can't create shade quickly do it after you wet your dog down.
  
  Wet the dog completely. Submersion in cool (not cold) water is best, if this is not possible then focus on the dog's head and neck area first. Apply an ice pack to the neck or head if you have one with you. If you need to keep your hands free to continue wetting the dog then loosely tie the ice pack on with your bandanna or light bandage material. Do not restrict breathing. If water is scarce have your dog lay on something hydrophobic (non-absorbent) like a trash bag, rain jacket or poncho in a recessed area if possible. This will create a bathtub effect and allow the water to pool keeping it on the dog longer.
  
  Fan the dog with your hat, backpack, or an item of clothing. Air movement facilitates cooling.
  
  Provide small amounts of cool water to drink.

• Get Help
  If you are traveling with other hikers ask for help. Gather as much water as the other humans are willing to spare. Have at least one person stay with you and send two or more to the nearest water source (river, pond, lake, your vehicle, the trailhead) to get more water. You will either need this to continue cooling your dog down or for the humans to drink while hiking the dog out.
  
  When your dog's temperature returns to normal or near normal and you think it's safe to start walking again move slowly to your vehicle. As you near the trailhead, send someone ahead with your car keys to start your vehicle and get the air conditioning running. This way your vehicle is already cooled down when you and your dog arrive.
  
  Call ahead to the veterinarian and let them know you are coming and what your situation is. This will facilitate their response when you arrive.

Caution

Never muzzle a dog with hyperthermia. Dogs use their mouths as one of their primary temperature regulation options.

Is it in your pack?

If this emergency happened to your dog today would you have the right items with you to provide adequate care? Here are some suggestions...

• Water, water and more water. Carry more than you think you AND your dog will need. It's worth it and if you don't need it, you may run into another hiker that does.
• Phone number and address of the nearest available veterinarian to your hiking location. (Hours of operation should be pre-confirmed.) (View CHCoA Emergency Vet List)
• Ice pack(s)
• Bandanna, self adhesive bandage wrap or other bandaging material in case you need to tie the ice pack(s) on.
• Hydrophobic material (can be used as bathtub to conserve water or as shade material)
  Trash bag, Neat Sheet, Nylon table cloth, Ground sheet from tent, Tarp, Backpack rain cover, Poncho or rain jacket, Space blanket, etc...
• Sugar cubes or honey packets - All can be used after your dog's temperature has returned to normal or near normal as a way to boost energy for the hike out.

Return to Topic's Directory

Definition

Paw and pad injuries are unfortunately one of the more common health issues among active dogs. The good news is they are rarely life threatening and not overly difficult to treat in the field. The following types of problems will be covered in this section: Minor abrasions, blisters, lacerations to the webbing between the toes or on the paw, foxtail removal and damaged toenails. Cacti removal, fishhook removal, punctures and fractured toes are addressed in other sections.

Prevention

Canine foot pads are actually specialized skin and since the brunt of the dog's weight is distributed onto the pads with each step it is important they stay in healthy condition so walking is not adversely affected.

• Preconditioning by walking/running the dog on various types of surfaces over a gradual period of time is the best preventative. In the same way you would break in new shoes before setting off on a long walk, an unconditioned dog needs time to build up their foot pads so they are less likely to "blow" a pad.
• Foot pad lotions, sprays and waxes can be useful as conditioners or as a means to toughen the pads before heading into the field. Consult your veterinarian for advice regarding these products.
• Dog boots or booties are also useful in some situations but they do have drawbacks. Booties should be introduced well before they are needed so the dog has time to get used to wearing them and so you know they are properly sized. Boots reduce traction and may contribute to slips or falls depending on the type of ground surface. They should not be used as a substitute for preconditioning the dog's feet before outdoor activity. They also need to be taken off periodically throughout your hike to allow the dogs feet to cool and so you can inspect their paws for debris that may have entered the boot during the hike.
• Keep toenails trimmed to reduce the likelihood of injuries to the nail and so booties fit properly.
• The hair between the toes and under the pads should also be regularly inspected and trimmed if necessary.
• Conduct a post hike inspection while in camp or when you return home. Closely examine under and in between the pads, each toenail and between each toe watching for foreign bodies, swelling, redness, cracks, bleeding, pain, fluid seepage, etc…. Address any issues before hiking again.

Early Warning Signs

Inhospitable trail conditions are a good indicator that there is potential for injury. Dogs that have come into contact with hazards like sharp rocks, broken glass, hot sand, pavement or pebbles, ice and road salt, repeated travel through water, fish hooks, unfriendly plants and even trash should be carefully monitored during the trip. Any of these factors may contribute to a hike ending paw injury. In my personal experience paw and foot pad injuries have been quite easy to spot as the dog typically offers obvious symptoms like favoring the paw, limping, whining, and/or biting at the wound area. It is entirely possible, however, for a dog to continue hiking despite pain or discomfort because they want to keep up with their owner. Any signs of abnormal behavior should always be investigated.

Caution

Any dog in distress has the potential to bite. Before beginning treatment for foot or foot pad injuries consider muzzling for an added level of safety. This is not advisable if the dog also has heat or breathing related issues.

Abrasions to the Foot or Footpad (See also Bleeding)

Symptoms

• Visible open wound
• Bleeding (may be heavy, especially from the footpads); Arterial bleeding will be bright red and spurt out. This is the most life-threatening and needs to be treated first.

Treatment

• Remove any visible foreign bodies still in the opening
• If bleeding is heavy apply gauze pads or other clean material and use firm, direct pressure over the wound until it stops. This may take up to 1/2 hour. Do not remove the blood saturated material until you are sure the bleeding has stopped. This will dislodge the clot
• Apply a pressure bandage to entire foot and keep it clean and dry
• Evacuate to a vet ASAP

• For minor bleeding, flush the area with clean water using forceful irrigation if possible. (A hydration bladder hose or a glove filled with water with a small hole poked in one finger works well for this.) If this isn't an option, an antiseptic cleanser will also work but do NOT use Hydrogen Peroxide.
• Apply an antibiotic ointment or cream if you have one.
• Bandage the area and keep it clean and dry.

Footpad Blisters

Symptoms

• Limping or favoring a limb
• A decrease in pace and/or an evident change in normal "on trail" behavior
• Visible cracks, blisters, raw spots, or openings in the foot pad
• You may also see a blood trail left behind with each step

Treatment

Footpad Blisters, also called Blown Pads, is not life threatening but it is definitely painful for the dog and will drastically slow your hiking progress. Address this type of injury as soon as you spot the symptoms so the blister does not grow or become deeper and more painful.

• Clean the foot pad by flushing it with clean water.
• If the skin has already cracked or opened up make sure all debris has been removed from under the outer skin layer.
• Treat with an antibiotic or first-aid cream
• Bandage
• Covering the bandage with a bootie may help preserve the dressing and keep the wound cleaner.
• If the blister is severe or on more than one paw and the dog appears to really be struggling, something may be needed to manage the pain. (See the Pain Management section for more info)

At Home

Re-examine the dog's injury when you return home and apply a new clean dressing if needed. The blister will heal in a couple of weeks with rest and light duty walking. Application of an ointment or pad conditioner may speed recovery.

Lacerations to the Webbing Between the Toes

Caution

This type of injury will likely be very painful, watch for signs of aggression or change in temperament. Additionally, some dogs are not overly keen on having their paws touched even when uninjured. If you suspect having problems, muzzling should be considered before you begin treatment. (See the Make Shift Muzzle section)

Symptoms

Treatment

At Home

Is it in your pack?